I did something wilder than usual last week, I took a red-eye to New York to
see Christo's Gates Project. This sort of thing is not in my budget, but I had
planned ahead, so I had the dough saved up. I met two friends there whom I never
get to see, was completely transported by the Gates, and it taught me all over
again that a poet needs to leave town and look at strangeness once in a while,
in service to her art.
Christo's Gates in Central Park are not like garden gates, those waist-high
interruptions in a picket fence. They're portals enormous orange door
frames for the house of a giant and imbued with all the mythology that
metaphor implies.
If you haven't seen the photos yet or watched 60 Minutes, each gate is 16 feet
tall, made of three pieces of steel encased in orange plastic two tall
verticals with a cross bar at the top. From that top bar hangs a swathe of sturdy
orange rip-stop nylon, pleated at first and then loose, ending 7 feet above
the ground, so that everyone except basketball teams can walk underneath them.
I didn't see any basketball teams, but just about everyone else showed up: walkers,
bikers, skateboarders, roller skaters, little kids on their dads' shoulders
reaching up to swat the fabric, old couples in wool coats and orange mufflers.
Everyone seemed to wear orange if they had any.
Have I mentioned that there are 7500 of these things, arching over 23 miles
of paths in Central Park? The sheer number gave the project a glorious lunacy.
From any given point you could see at least three or four Gates, and most of
the time you could see more like 200, angling off crazily under the trees.
I walked the length of the park with my friends, riffing on what they reminded
us of curtains in windows, laundry on the line, rows of ballet dancers,
prayer flags. The wind blew some of them but not others, so it seemed as though
the whole regiment was in motion like a slow-moving Chinese New Year
dragon. The volunteers tried to tell us the color was saffron, but it wasn't
as yellow or as dark as that. It was a true Cal-Trans-truck orange, vivid under
blue sky, luminous under gray.
We fell into conversation with lots of people a tiny French woman, elegant
in a full-length (orange) down coat told me they were a gift to the city, and
a burly young man in a sweatshirt growled that they were OK. Some people were
crying, as I had cried when I first saw them, although I couldn't tell you why.
Maybe it's the grandness of the gesture that's so moving like coming
upon acres of poppies or a huge pod of whales.
Mostly everyone looked at the Gates in wonder talking a mile a minute,
since it was New York and smiled at one another. As we left, a cop on
the corner said to his partner: Look at all these people!
The city hasn't been alive like this since the towers fell.